7 October 2009

from the Wick of Skaw to the Golden Valleys

7 October 2009

The North Atlantic Arc ~ Mr Tattie Heid Home

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7 October 2009--Something's been weighing heavily on me for the past couple of days, occupying my mind and making me even more withdrawn than usual in my interactions with others. I've had a couple of sleepless nights, my brain spinning with the repercussions of what has been going on. Yesterday a couple of things snapped into focus for me: I'm not responsible for other people's actions, and I can't control other people's feelings. Obvious, of course, but quite suddenly I was able to let things go that are beyond my control. I felt a great weight lifted.

As if to mirror my mood, the morning is sunny and crisp, and I set out on an all-day walk. Up the ridge on the north side of Hopedale I go, to Hollins Cross, the pass over into Edale. But first, I turn east toward Lose Hill. I encounter a group of older walkers--far older, anyway, than I imagine myself to be--and, as our paths cross repeatedly over the next half hour, I fall into easy banter with them. "Is this Hadrian's Wall?" I ask, indicating the low stone fence running alongside the trail. I'm sure they think me a right loon.

Back down to Hollins Cross, and down into Edale. Shortly I am in Edale village, walking into the Old Nag's Head. It's a handsome pub, dating to 1577, and is the southern terminus of the Pennine Way. Long-distance walking in the UK started here--the "Great Trespass" of Kinder Scout, just north of here, in 1932 was the catalyst for securing right-of-way for walkers in Britain, and led to the establishment of long-distance trails and national parks. The Pennine Way goes north from the Peak District through Yorkshire and Northumbria, ending just across the Scottish border. I ponder all this over a pint of mild.

Back up to the Cross, and west to Mam Tor, the highest point in the area, looking down over Hopedale and Castleton. There have been paragliders circling around its peak all day, and I'm hoping to get up close enough to get some good photos of them; but it's getting on in the afternoon, and as I ascend, they float off down into the valley, one by one, toward their waiting bus. I'm about ten minutes too late. Still, I enjoy the view from the top.

The route I choose back down is perhaps not the best. Part of it runs along what was once the main road out of Hopedale to the west. Landslips long ago rendered it unusable, and another road was built away from the unstable ground. I'm back to the B&B in time for a shower before dinner at the George. It's been a very good day.